There’s a popular and long-running band called They Might Be Giants here in New York City will often sing a somewhat annoying ditty called “Istanbul.” It starts out like this:
Istanbul was Constantinople / Now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople / Been a long time gone, Constantinople / Now it’s Turkish Delight on a moonlit night
Istanbul, embraced by the fading sun.
Why would I bring up a goofy little song by a relatively obscure band? Because it actually speaks to something important about the character of Istanbul that most casual travelers might not be aware of. In the modern era, most ignorant outsiders view Turkey as firmly ensconced within the Middle East – and subject to some of the strict cultural controls that you might expect in from a country like Saudi Arabia or Iran.
That’s not true. And part of what makes that not true are the many bars in Istanbul that you can get soused in. Turkey is perhaps the most secular country in the Middle East, owing to its revolutionary founder, Ataturk. Its history as the old capital of the Ottoman Empire also makes it more like a European city than you might otherwise expect. Before the Ottomans conquered it in 1453 – as the song goes, the city was once called Constantinople, and acted as the capital of the Byzantine Empire.
Istanbul is full of western-style pubs, eastern-style restaurants, and even techno-pumping nightclubs that can keep you active through the night until the sun rises. Try out the food at restaurants like the Albura Kathisma Cafe, where you can share a feast fit for a sultan at the center of your table. You can rarely go wrong by ordering lamb in Turkey, often cooked to a buttery tenderness and marinated in flavorful sauce. Although Islamic leaders tend to forbid alcohol, wine, beer, and spirits flow freely throughout Istanbul. Imbibe heartily and enjoy yourself.
If you can still stagger back to your hotel room, Istanbul accommodation ranges from hostels affordable to even the poorest students to five star hotels staffed by servants who will feed you fresh dates on request.
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I’ve heard this before, the whole story behind how Turkey is 90+% Muslim but still strictly secular is fascinating (and brilliant). How are the girls?
Cheers,
Andrew